 |
| Pizza |
| Because of it’s incredible popularity in America, there are those who believe that the U.S. invented pizza. But the United States did not invent the pizza. It was, however, made popular in the United States by soldiers who brought the idea back from Italy at the end of World War II. Pizza is thought to have evolved from early Egyptian flat bread. Literally translated, the word “pizza” means "pie," but it has come to represent a round savory tart made with a crisp yeast dough covered with a rich tomato sauce, mozzarella cheese and any variety of ingredients called “toppings” such as peppers, onions, Italian sausage, mushrooms, anchovies and pepperoni. Just how crisp the dough, and how much and how many of the toppings is a matter of personal choice. Variations such as deep-dish pizza, with its thick bread-like crust, were made famous in Chicago and have been popular since its introduction. The variation on the deep-dish pizza is the stuffed-pizza, similar to a deep-dish pizza topped with a thin layer of dough under a final layer of tomato sauce. Many upscale pizza restaurant’s menus now feature pizzas sans tomato sauce and mozzarella cheese. They're topped instead with ingredients such as sun-dried tomatoes, duck sausage, fresh basil, smoked salmon, goat cheese or wild mushrooms. But fear not, there are almost as many pizza haunts as there are fast food joints, and finding a traditional “slice” with your favorite traditional topping is bound to be near. For me, a good pizza is dependent on how good the tomato sauce is. It’s hard to get mozzarella wrong, and the myriad of available toppings are all pretty standard [even the more “gourmet” toppings are readily available and lack wild variations], but the tomato sauce can be sweet, sour, hot, spicy, bland, salty, just about anything. When a pizza joint gets it right, they get to keep my business. But it’s just as easy to use my own tomato sauce for a homemade pie. Never mind that dozens of tomato sauces on the supermarket shelves. Have a favorite? Use it as the tomato sauce on your next homemade pizza. When I’m not in the mood for tomato sauce, or I want to indulge in my very favorite pizza, I break out the pesto. That’s right, my favorite pizza doesn’t have a tomato base, it has a pesto base, and why not? Next to tomato, nothing is more Italian than pesto. If you are a fan of pesto and haven’t had a pesto pizza, stop reading and go get one. The rich flavors of pesto makes other toppings almost futile. A wonderful pizza dough topped with pesto and mozzarella is a joy to behold. Speaking of dough, it is so easy to make your own pizza dough that you really should give it a try. There are many pizza dough products on the market now that speak to the popularity of pizza, but nothing can compare to a homemade pizza dough. No matter your tastes, the easiest way to ensure you will like the pie that sits before you, is to have made it yourself. Perfect Pizza Dough I developed this dough years ago. Baking your dough on a pizza stone will guarantee a nice crispy pizza. At least 45 minutes before baking pizza, put a pizza stone [or 4 to 6 unglazed quarry tiles arranged together] on oven rack in lowest position in oven and preheat oven to highest setting [500°F-550°F]. 3/4 cup warm water [105°F to115°F] 1 teaspoon superfine sugar 1 envelope yeast [ensure its freshness] 2 cups flour 1 1/2 tsp. olive oil 3/4 tsp. kosher salt Place 3/4 cup warm water and honey in mixer or food processor. Sprinkle yeast over; let stand until mixture is foamy, about 5 minutes. Add flour, oil and salt. Process until dough forms. Turn dough out onto lightly floured surface. Knead until smooth, about 5 minutes. Transfer dough to large oiled bowl; turn to coat. Cover with plastic wrap, then kitchen towel. Let dough rise in warm draft-free area until doubled in volume, about 1 1/2 hours. Punch down dough. Divide into 2 equal balls. Roll out your dough, top and bake for 10 to 12 minutes until crispy. TOM’s RED SAUCE Don’t mistake the purpose of this tomato sauce, or be fooled by it's glaring simplicity. The idea is that it not compete with the cheese and toppings. Reducing the tomato sauce deepens the tomato flavor and accentuates anything you decide with which to pair it. 28-ounce can crushed tomatoes in puree [preferably Italian; about 3 1/2 cups] 3 tablespoons olive oil In a large non-reactive saucepan bring tomatoes and oil to a simmer and simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, 20 minutes, or until sauce is reduces to about 2 1/2 cups. Season sauce with salt and cool to room temperature. Sauce keeps, covered and chilled, 5 days. Makes about 2 1/2 cups PESTO If you have a favorite store brand, feel free to use it. 4 cups packed fresh basil leaves, washed well 1/2 cup pine nuts, toasted until golden, cooled, and chopped fine 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan [preferably Reggiano] 2 large garlic cloves, minced 1/4 cup plus 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Have ready a bowl of ice and cold water. In a saucepan of boiling salted water blanch basil, a handful at a time, 2 seconds, transferring with a slotted spoon to bowl of ice water to stop cooking. Drain basil in a sieve and pat dry. In a food processor purée basil with remaining ingredients until smooth and season with salt and pepper. Pesto may be made 2 days ahead and chilled, its surface covered with plastic wrap. Makes about 1 ¼ cups. ~~~ Everyone has their favorite toppings, and almost anything goes. Here are some topping ingredients you may not have thought of: SEAFOOD Shrimp Lobster Crab Smoked salmon ALTERNATIVE MEATS Prosciutto Smoked Turkey Barbecued Meats Chicken Pork UNUSUALLY GOOD VEGGIES Potatoes Artichoke hearts Corn Sautéed lettuces Leeks Roasted vegetables Broccoli Asparagus Haricot Verts Zucchini Squash Eggplant FRESH HERBS basil oregano thyme marjoram tarragon BEYOND MOZZARELLA Goat Manchego Fontina Gruyere Brie Smoked Mozzarella Smoked Gouda Feta Jarlsberg BEYOND TOMATO SAUCE Pesto [recipe above] Black Olive Tapenade Garlic butter Olive oil [with or without an herb infusion] ~~~ Dear Tom Whenever I make my own pizza, the toppings always end up in my lap. What am I doing wrong? Despite the incredible creativity allowed when it comes to making pizza, there are some elements that need to be carefully factored into the important layering steps, otherwise you could end up with what is commonly known as "the pizza slide". Pizza slide is when the ingredients, sauce, cheese and all, ends up sliding off the crust and into your lap [or onto your plate]. Most people only experience this phenomenon with homemade pizza. So what is it that is different between homemade pizza and that from the local pizzeria? My trick has always been to sprinkle some of the mozzarella onto the unbaked crust before anything else goes on. The melted cheese acts like a glue for the other ingredients, and your toppings won't end up going south. Here is my building block for a great homemade pizza: 1. Prepare and shape your dough. Lightly oiling the dough and/or your pan will aid in the shaping and prevent the dough from sticking. 2. Sprinkle a thin layer of mozzarella onto the shaped dough. You may even want to sprinkle your fresh herbs, sesame seeds, or red pepper flakes on at this point. The insulation of your sauce and other toppings will prevent this sometimes-precarious ingredients from burning, which they might do if placed on top. 3. Ladle on your sauce. The easiest way to get your sauce onto your prepared dough is with a ladle. Pour the sauce on around the outside, and then, using the bottom of the ladle, even it out. 4. Here's where some debate may take place. Some people will put the cheese on next, but this is where I put on my chosen toppings. With a layer of cheese underneath, and ultimately a layer of cheese on top, you another assurance that your ingredients will stay on the crust. Evenly layer your toppings. Feel free to keep a few of your toppings aside for the top of the pizza, but the bulk of your toppings go on here. Speaking of toppings, consider these few tips: * Always prepare your toppings before you do anything else. Grate the cheese, chop the veggies, and cook the meat. Never put uncooked meat, seafood, or poultry on a pizza. * Control the moisture of your pizza by making sure your ingredients aren't too wet. Blot washed vegetables with paper toweling, and make sure sausage is well-drained. Use items right out of the refrigerator, this way you don't have to worry about condensation building up and adding unwanted moisture. * Always use the freshest meats and vegetables. If you are sautéing ingredients to add to a pizza, do the sautéing right before you begin building the pizza * Top your pizza off with the rest of the mozzarella. 2 cups ought to be enough for a 14" pizza, using about 1/2 cup for the first layer. * Don't let your pizza sit around after it's been prepared, this is another time when unwanted moisture can present itself. Get it into your preheated oven, bake as directed, watching it carefully, and remove when it's done. * Once removed from the oven, now is the time to add shaved or shredded parmesan. The heat from the pizza will melt it slightly and add a wonderful aroma. Let it sit for a minute or two, then, using a pizza wheel or large chef's knife, cut the pizza in half, then into quarters, and then into eighths. Beyond that, it's up to you. Pass extra parmesan and red pepper flakes, and ENJOY! tom saaristo © Thomas Saaristo All Rights Reserved tom@tomsaaristo.com |